Lubrication

First off, make sure the lubricants you use say they are plastic compatible. Make sure!

I recommend you purchase plastic compatible oils and greases that state specifically they are plastic compatible, and preferably from a known and reputable manufacturer. 

Of course there are always exceptions. 

Unfortunately, as of August, 2009, Aristocraft still advertises their "Electralube" grease as plastic compatible. This product has been proven to cause plastic to crack, causing catastrophic failure in plastic sideframes. You can search for "catastrophic" on the Aristocraft forum, and you will see. I don't like putting stuff like this in my web site, but as long as it is advertised, and even the instruction manuals with Aristo rolling stock say you can use it, I will keep the warning up.

I received a bottle of it with no note from Aristo one day, unasked for. Maybe they were hoping that my rolling stock would be destroyed or as a joke. I left the bottle on a shelf in my garage. It has actually "digested" the container itself! It is still sitting on the metal shelf, in a pool of lubricant caused by the likewise catastrophic failure of the bottle caused by the "plastic compatible" lube. This is way too  funny, but sad in a way.

If you think a lubricant is compatible but you can't be sure, then just don't use it. There are too many choices PROVEN to work. The cost of a quality lubricant is TRIVIAL compared to the cost of the car or locomotive you are using it on! 

I like the Hob-e-lube and the Aero-car lubricants, as well as good old Labelle.

Dry vs wet lubricants:

I prefer dry lubricants for situations where there is plastic on at least one bearing surface, like most wheel journals. The dry lubricants tend not to gather grit. The dry lubricants I recommend are graphite/moly mixtures. The moly tends to "plate" the plastic and works very well.

When it's metal to metal, then I like a lithium-based grease with moly in it. Again, the moly tends to "plate" the surfaces and make them very slippery. 

Oil is usually good on the rods on a steam loco.

The smaller moving parts in valve gear will take a "light" oil.

Grease is good for sleeve type bearings where there is a higher load, and grease on the gears.

On motors, a drop of oil on the shafts, and heavier oil on really big motors. 

Here's some of the recommended Aero-car lubricants and their applications:

ACT-3753-conducta - one drop per brush, or any other electrical contact point, including power pickup wipers. Don't use on sealed motors. Clean the motor with plastic-compatible motor or tuner cleaner.

On motors, use 2112-motor bearing lubricant, or act-2752 heavy duty bearing lubricant on larger motors.Use this heavier lube on bearings, side rods and valve gear.

ACT-111, NG Jel, use a little applicator to put a small amount on the gear teeth. It will spread itself. If you see excess, you used too much, wipe it off. This is really great stuff, it's a gel, and clings to gears and does not fly off, but under pressure, becomes more liquid, and coats the surfaces better. Neats stuff.

Update: Atlas sells their #190 Gear Lubricant, and it's identical in looks to the Aero lube. The container is identical, and it has the same unusual deep blue-purple color. So here's another alternative to find it.

To determine when something needs lubrication, lube the equipment, measure amp draw, and establish baseline measurement. When the equipment draws more current, it needs lubrication.

Aero-car / aero-locomotive recommends removing other types of lubricants before using their products, clean with isopropyl alcohol.