Manufacturers of Z scale track (at a glance):

Micro-Trains track:

They have sectional track, "flex track", and a "quick track" that has grey plastic roadbed, ties and rails as a unit.

The flex track comes in a pack of 10 sections 12.5" long each. Interestingly, the last 4 ties at each end "have a gradually tapered height to allow them to bend downward when the rail joiner is installed".  I want to verify that this is helpful.

Märklin track:

Peco track:

Peco makes flex track only. A full box contains (12) two foot flex track pieces.

It will bend all the way down to a 5 inch radius (and hold the gauge) and still straighten back out without kinks. Yuron rail cutters work well on it.

JHM Track:

Looks like some beautiful stuff, Aspenmodels carries it. I found the web site, only in German, but you can get a pdf of their products.http://web.me.com/j.haubrich/JHM/Start.html 

 

Laying track:

Most of this will be slanted towards laying track on modules. 

Preparing the roadbed:

Talk about cork roadbed and other alternatives

Talk about width, bevelling edges, self adhesive, how to lay to centerline 

Preparing / joining sections of track:

Don't cut through track and ties, cut the ties out of the way first, or you may separate the rails from the ties.

Use a good set of flush cutting dykes and cut the top and bottom of the rail.

DO NOT HOLD ONTO THE TRACK WHILE CUTTING. Get the track in the dykes and let go of it. Otherwise holding it might bend it. The track may move a bit while the dykes are doing their job. Trying to restrain it often puts bends in the track.

I trim the ends flush with the flat side of a very fine grinding wheel spinning slowly. Don't let the rails heat up or you will soften the "spikes" and the rails will come loose. Take a little cut, look at it make sure it has cooled and grind a bit more.

To see when the ends are square, I use 2 techniques: one is using Rodney's rail tool (the long one) slid up to the end of the rail to check square. 

The other method is to stand it on end on a flat surface. It will be straight up if the ends are square.

After final trimming, I hold an x-acto parallel to the rails, and use it to deburr the rail ends. Scrap it on the sides and bottom. If you grind the rail from the top down, the rail head will have no burr. 

Note: On Micro-Trains flex track, the last 3 ties are thinner and not connected to the rails. This gives clearance to the thickness of the rail joiner. When using cut sections of MT flex track, be sure to look for this and also on the cut ends, you may want to use an X-Acto to release the last 3 ties. I have no idea (yet!) on how to thin the ties, but I guess you could do it from underneath, the tie strips are pretty flexible.

The MT joiners are easier to use than the Marklin, and have a rounded "tongue" that does not cut your fingers. The important thing is to add the joiner without bending the rail. If you have track tools, that will be an easy way to hold the track. I put the joiner on at an angle, and once the rail has entered it, then line it up.

How not to bend/damage

Use of Rodney's tools to straighten/protect/hold

Add track guide. Track is 1/2" across, so the centerline is easy to set. I use a set of large calipers to measure where my track laying guides go. If you are laying the track 9" from the center, then you can set the edge of the guide 8-3/4" from the centerline for example. This method worked best for me.

Securing the track to the roadbed:

Gluing the track to the roadbed seems the best. Don Fedjur turned me on to "Aleen's Original Tacky glue", available at Michaels and other craft stores. (There's other Aleen's glues, but this one is the best.) Tip: store the tube pointing down so it's near the tip when you want use it. I found a small metal jar to do this with.

I use an "acid brush", trimmed short so the bristles don't wander off the roadbed. It takes a medium size bead down the center and brush it out to the edges of the roadbed.

You should have already prepared the track segments so you can gently lift them into place. Having them straightened out and lying close by and already test fitted means there is little chance of you bending or kinking it when placing it.

Now I move the track up against my guide (from the previous step)

Special stuff just for modules:

Tips on using and preparing/modifying the Marklin 8592 adjustable track sections:

Cut off the last tie on each end of the 8592. I cut the connecting "web" back to the next tie. This gives room for the rail joiners and helps the rails slide independently of each other. Lay the section rails down on a hard surface. Now use a sharp X-acto to cut through the plastic. The blade will stop when it hits the rail. A nice chisel blade is best so you can push straight down. (blade is flat across and perpendicular to the handle).

Next you will remove the last tie on each end. Now it's really easy to take the "cut" tie off, just twist off the tie from the side that does not have the joiner.

Now all you have to do is remove the joiner. Don't try pulling it. If you look carefully you will see that is crimped around the rail. I take a small set of dykes, lay one blade in the slot of the joiner. Squeeze, it will open the joiner. Then twist along the the axis of the rail and it will twist right off.

Most people stop here. I have a few more tips to make it work better.

One rail at each end is still "captive". While you can squeeze the section shorter, it will eventually go back to the length it wants. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, and while holding the section flat on the edge of the table, push that rail back into the ties. It will break loose, and you can work it back and forth. Now both rails will slide independently of the plastic ties.

To go even further, slide both rails out of one end. Now, take a fine file/sandpaper (I use a diamond fingernail file) and bevel the ends of the center "channel" the rails slide into. This will reduce the "bump" that the wheels hit as they transit from the movable rails to the fixed center.

Put Micro-Trains rail joiners on both rails of the track at the ends of the module. Since the 8592 uses telescopic rail at both ends, its rails are just a fraction of a millimeter smaller in profile than "standard" rail. Rail joiners will "bite" into the module end's standard rail much better than the telescopic rail and not pull off during disassembly. (not sure about this yet, need to test for myself)

Track setback at module ends:

The ends of the track must be 2-1/8 inch back from the end of the module. That leaves a 4 and 1/4 inch "gap" for the 8592 to span when 2 modules are joined

If you make the "gap" longer, then the natural "springiness" of the 8592 will not ensure the rail ends stay together. Vibration will cause gaps to form between the ends of the 8592 and the module rails very quickly.

If you make the "gap" shorter, the 8592 will be compressed so much that the ties will cause variations in track gauge.

If the ends of the rails are "cut" ends, then you need to slice off the "spikes" AND "tie plates" on all both sides of both rails on the last 2 ties. Now, work a piece of 220 grit sandpaper gently between the rail and the tie and "saw" back and forth. This will thin the tie and give clearance for the joiner in a manner similar to the uncut ends of MT flex track.

Roadbed treatment at module ends:

The "height" of the roadbed must be 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch less where the 8592 spans between modules.

The overall height of the 8592 is taller than "standard" track (Peco, Marklin, MT). If you fail to sand down the roadbed, the 8592 will form a "hump" with its ends matching the module's rails and the middle much higher in the air.

Not done well, it can give a pronounced "bobble" to cars as the hit the hump or dip. Over time, the 8592's will deform and go out of gauge from the stress.

Checking your trackwork:

Lay a straight edge on your finished connection, and make sure the tops of all rails are level. If not, sand the roadbed down some more. 

Use Rodney's tools to check and align straightaways.

Use Rodney's tools or a caliper to measure track to track spacing

 

Comparing track:

Märklin and MTL are code 55, same as Miller Engineering rail.  BUT, the rail head is MUCH more prototypical on MTL flex / rail. You can see MTL rail in a macro shot whereas Marklin/Peco track is huge.

Nice visual comparison of Märklin, Micro-Trains,and Peco track: (from Svein-Martin Holt's web site)

http://www.platelayer.com/mj/zscaletrackdimensions/index.asp

Note:  The rail base width of all three is basically the same.

The tie spacing on Märklin and Peco track pretty wide, whereas the Micro-Trains looks more prototype for US mainline / standard gauge.

Peco flex can be freely bent in both directions (and freely returned to straight) while Märklin flex must have the ties cut on the backside prior to bending (maybe every 4th tie).  MTL flex can bend both ways but is stiff and will hold it's position.

Here is a link to RocoUSA where you can find a pictorial catalog of Marklin Z, but no descriptions, just part numbers and jpg files.

From Bill Kronenberger ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ):

 By the way, Peco and Marklin model Euro ties and tie spacing. MT models US tie and tie spacing. However, Z is so small, no one ever seems to notice the Euro spacing.
On the other hand, when you use MT track on a bridge, with Peco or Marklin on either side, it makes for a very convincing "bridge track" appearance (bridges always have more ties per 100 feet than regular track does). M.B. Kleins (Baltimore), texNrails.com and discount-train.com (both in Florida) are great starting points for best prices.

Switches:

Marklin was about the only game in town, i.e. readily available.

Micro-Trains are good.

There is another manufacturer, Halwea, here is a link to the web site they look great, but the site is entirely in German.

Here's a link to an NN3 site (they use Z scale track) with some good info: http://www.nn3.ca/track/track-p1.htm

tips on turnouts:

http://www.nn3.ca/main/main-american-zj-gauge-p5.htm