Motive Power Mods & Tips

This is the "entry point" for all pages on working on and modifying/improving motive power.

Your next step is to select a manufacturer from the menu on the left to see what tips are available for that manufacturer's products.

Don't forget to visit the "Misc. Motive Power" section, you never know what you will find!

Most of the entries are from my direct experience. As always, I have an eye towards low maintenance and reliability.

If you find errors, or have suggestions, please let me know!

Overview

No agenda, just some personal observations:

I have not found ANY brand that I buy that does not need some form of "tweaking". The difference is that some brands need more than others. In general, the quality on German stuff is much higher than the Chinese stuff, they just use better "ingredients". It also costs more.

 

In most cases, you pretty much get what you pay for.


My experience - out of the box assembly / quality.

  • LGB (limited) - rarely a problem
  • USA - hardly ever a problem except for "split axles" on older locos
  • AML - rolling stock excellent, the locos are great, but of course are brass locos and more costly.
  • Bachmann - I have had very few problems out of the box, but mechanical drivetrain issues (split gears) are not uncommon.
  • Aristo - normally not any problems in the basic design, but  more wiring and electrical problems and more assembly problems than the rest.
My experience - after running for a while.
  • LGB - rarely a problem
  • AML - rarely a problem.
  • USA - only the split axles, easy and cheap to repair
  • Bachmann - split gears, loose screws, cracked plastic housings
  • Aristo - more broken wires, plating gone and steel wheels rusting, wheels coming loose on axles, destroyed valve gear.
My experience with service
  • LGB (old) - (the repair center was walking distance) - took forever to fix things, but perfectly repaired.
  • LGB (new) - well there are a few places that have LGB parts. Try Train-Li or Massoth, both do quality work, but don't expect USA prices.
  • USA - I have never had to send anything back, the only repair parts I have ever needed were axles, easily repaired or replaced. Mike in parts is golden.
  • Bachmann - heard too many horror stories to return, and replacement parts easy to get, although have to buy assemblies sometimes $$. Irvin in parts has retired, bad news, you normally get a snotty person on the phone.
  • Aristo - too many people have sent things back 3-4 times and not repaired. They used to have a great reputation, but just ask a mallet owner. Unfortunately Aristo does not know how to repair many of their own products, or will not admit there is a problem. They are very nice in public and on the phone, just no results. Your best bet is getting a new replacement part, not having something repaired. The bright spot is Navin in service, the nicest guy you know.

Typical things you can do to improve your motive power:

 

Gauge your wheels

Unfortunately easier said than done on many locos. USAT is easy to do. Aristo is about impossible and normally way under gauge. The prime movers need to be completely disassembled and a shim added between the gear casting and the half axle.

It's worth the effort in smooth running and reducing derailments.

Add weight

If there is no problem with premature bearing failure, add weight up to prototype weight on rolling stock.

Scale weight is calculated by using the cube of 29 (in my scale)... either multiply or divide by it.  The number is 24389, divide the prototype weight by 24389 to get scale weight in pounds.

For example, an E8 weighed 187 tons, or 374,000 pounds. Divide by 24389, you get 15.3 pounds.

A nice easy number to remember is it is approximately 1.3 ounces of weight per prototype ton.

You may surprise yourself, adding 3 of the original 2 pound weights brings the E8 very close to 15 pounds.  

On locos, add the max weight on the Aristo locos. Be a bit careful on bearings on locos that have sleeve bearings.

Go over electrical connections

Many of the latest locos have sloppy wiring, soldering, and pinched wires right from the factory. A visual once over will help.

A note on DC operation: the NMRA standard says that a loco should move forward when the right hand rail is positive. Note that LGB locos run in the opposite direction.