AML GP60 electronicsOverviewThis is a technical page, but it needs to go into details due to the weird electronics in the loco, and lack of documentation.I'm going into these details to document the interface presented on the motherboard, specifically to adding a different decoder.So in not-so-infinite-wisdom, AML decided to use a non-standard socket in the GP60, even though there are thousands of Aristo/Bachman socketed locos and several decoders that fit THAT STANDARD socket:Phoenix SM-18 decoderTCS Wowsound 501 decoderDigitrax DG583s QSI Revolution decoder (out of production)QSI Titan decoder (out of production)So this page is starting the arduous process of documenting the socket, the operation of the "dummy plug" and the eventual installation of an adaptor to facilitate the installation of ANY decoder. LokSound decoder connections Below is the pinout of the LokSound 5 XL decoder... pay attention to the fact that pin 1 has a square outline.I'm calling the leftmost connector J1, as it maps similarly to the industry standard Aristo and Bachmann sockets. This is where track and motor and headlights areI'll call the rightmost connetor J2, the top (in this illustration) J3, and the bottom J4(THIS ILLUSTRATION IS FROM THE "BOTTOM SIDE" of the decoder)GP60 Motherboard decoder socket connections Below is a picture of the motherboard, notice it's orientation is such that pin #1 is nearest the bottom on the left and right connectors. Also pin#1 on the lower horizontal connector is on the left. The top connector is not labelled the same way, but we don't care since it is mostly servos.Again using my nomenclature:Left Side: J1, #1 pin at bottomRight side: J2, #1 at bottom, but NOTE: the first pin of the decoder does NOT have a socket hole... so the J2 socket starts with the rear light, not AUX 11, weird. You can see on the motherboard there is actually a hole in the board, but it's not usedBottom, J3, pin one on the leftTop, J4, pin 1 on the right, but the numbering is screwed up when looking at the decoder illustration. No matter, mostly servos.Listing of the pins in the socket J1: (notice I reference the actual pins in the socket) J1 socket pin numberUSE notes 1 left rail pickup 2 right rail pickup 3 right rail pickup (optional) duplicate of to pin 3 4 right motor motor plus 5 U+ (common pole) no idea 6 U+ common pole tied to +UB on motherboard 7 GND 8 left motor motor minus9 wheel sensor inputreference to ground or plus?10 left motorduplicate motor minus11 speaker 1 #1speaker minus12 speaker 1 #2speaker + So most of what we want is here, the U+ things are not identical on the motherboard, so several things to check out.J2 socket pins: (again I am referencing the pins in the socket, which are NOT numbered the same as the decoder, the decoder has 14 pins, the motherboard socket only has 12)J2 socket pin numberUSE Notes 1 rear light 2 headlight 3 sensor input #1 4 AUX1 5 AUX2 6 AUX3 7 sensor input #2 8 AUX4 9 AUX5 10 auxilary board power control (reserved) 11AUX6speaker minus12 U+ tied to +UB, Pin 6 J1 J3 pins, again 12 pins, starting from the leftJ3 socket pin numberUSE Notes 1AUX13 logic level 2speaker 2 #1 says plus (notice silk screen reverse polarity of speaker #1, clearly an error) 3speaker 2 #2 says minus 4+10 volts really? what for? 5+5 volts 6AUX7 7AUX8 8AUX9 9AUX10 10AUX11 also for SUSI data or servo511AUX12 also for SUSI clock or servo 612 UVAR regulated DC power common (+) 1.8 v, but can be set by changing resistor 1.5 to 3v So in summary, we need 12 pins on J1, and can get away with 11 pins for J2 and J3... which makes it easy to modify Bachmann adaptor boards sold for.GP60 motherboard other connectors There are a number of connectors on the mother board.to get the signals and power on and off, below is the legend mapping the silkscreen to functions connector "number"socket connection silkscreen meaningX1 - right end (with the silkscreen right side up) TRKL / TRKRTRacK Left and TRacK RightX2 - right end SPK2 SPeaKer 2, note polarity is also on silkscreenX3 - right end MOT MOTors, note polarity is also on silkscreenX10 - right end +5v / LMPR / AUX7 thru AUX115 volts, LaMP Rear, and AUX 7 through 11.X12 - right end SERVO2 / +5v / GND typical servo pins for servo #2X14 - middle TRKL / TRKR TRacK Left and TRacK Right (duplicate of X1)X7 - left end SPK1 SPeaKer 1, note polarity is also on silkscreenX8 - left end MOT MOTors, note polarity is also on silkscreen (duplicate of X3)X9 - left end +5v / LMPF / AUX2 thru AUX6 5 volts, LaMP Front, and AUX 2 through 6X11 - left end +UB / AUX1 / +5v / AUX13 +UB???, AUX1, +5 volts, AUX13X13 - left end SERVO1 / +5v / GND typical servo pins for servo #1 GP60 Dummy plug notesBelow is a picture of the "dummy plug", shown below (as shipped for DC operation)Dip Switch labeling/mapping:Closer inspection shows dip switches apparently mapped to headlights and AUX functions, and the default settings:The silk screening indicates the 2 headlights (upper left switch position 3&4 and 5&6) and then AUX outputs A1 through A11.It would seem that only AUX 1 through 7 have something connected. (by the switch positions)I will verify this, but it's clear there are 2 switches per "output" (normally a led)So every switch has either: (this indicates what function is controlled)LF or LR (light front, light rear)A1 through A13 for AUX1 through AUX13 (the A is missing on some switchesIn addition every switch has:F or R (meaning operation in forward or reverse)ON/OFF (move to ON to enable the desired direction)Looking at the switch positions as shipped:front light is on only in forwardsrear light is on only in reversethe rest are on only in forwards (that is weird) Bachmann / Aristo socket wiringThis is background to help understand the standard socket wiring, since I want to use a Bachmann adaptor plug.Showing the standards for J1 and J2:Aristo and Bachmann sockets:The basic Aristo socket only uses J1 electrically: Pin # J1 function (Aristo) J1 functionfunctionfunction (Bachmann) J2 function 1 Power Pick-up Right SidePower Pick-up Right Side Aux power 2 Power Pick-up Right SidePower Pick-up Right Side F1 3 Motor(s) Right SideMotor + F2 4 Front Lamp Controlrear LED ??? F3 5 Smoke On/Off*smoke - F4 6 + Outgnd F5 7 Ground CommonB+ train bus +8Smoke On/Off*chufftrain bus -9Rear Lamp Controlfront LED??SP-10Motor(s) Left Sidemotor -Reed sw11Power Pick-up Left Sidepower pickup left sideSP+12Power Pick-up Left Sidepower pickup left sideXXXXXXXXX Aristo did not standardize J2 for power/control purposes(but sometimes the speaker is wired to it), * Pin 5 & 8 must be bridged for DCC Comparing the Bachmann standard to the GP60 socketCasual inspection will show that since J1 pins 1&2 are connected together (to not overload the socket current rating), plugging a decoder so wired into the GP60 would immediately short the 2 rails together, no to mention the connections are completely different.The Bachmann enhancement of the Aristo socket builds on this standard, and also somewhat standardizes the J2 connector opposite.So, there is no decoder other than the ESU that will plug into the loco. Please note that the actual implementation in the loco has NOT BEEN VERIFIED as of February 2024. Plan thus far to interface to the GP60document and understand motherboards socket and connectorsfrom above, we need one 12 pin connector and two 11 pin connectors for J1, J2, J3modify an existing adaptor to save work (Bachmann part number G828X-PCB05 https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12562plug in the boards and wire to decoder of choice (in this example QSI Titan)enjoy!Modify Bachmann adaptorThe Bachmann adaptor has 2 ends, one has 12 pins, but only 10 wires since J1 has pins 1&2 jumpered as well as pins 11&12 (J2 end has all 11 wires needed):Look carefully at the pictures below and you can see the copper that jumpers these two pairs of pins on J1 Modification:So, we need to slice the large land that jumpers the J1 pins, and then drill 2 holes and solder 2 more wires.I bought 2 adapters, so I have potentially 4 plugs.It makes sense to slice the adapters in half so you have 4 independent "plugs". Note the motherboard does not have all the sockets at the same level (crazy!)
AML GP60 second release this page under construction Overview: Hoo boy! Lots to talk about, mostly assembly and design. While this page is being built, it will be in goofy order. Basically a product with a complex and non-standard electrical interface with NO DOCUMENTATION WHATSOEVER. Also several design issues in the final product, QA and assembly issues. Issue: missing or broken partsSo my buddy RJ just got one (Jan 2024) and the instruction plate under the dynamic brake blister is missing:This is what you should see: TThis is what RJ found in his: Broken/missing detail parts:missing number board - reported by Tedmissing brake hose assembly - reported by RJbroken brake hose assembly - reported by Tedbroken underbody piping - reported by RJmissing switch plate (as above) - reported by RJmissing pamphlet with exploded diagrams - reported by RJbroken safety chain between end stanchionsHUGE Some locos wired wrong, shorting the rails together (because trucks are identical, and they are in reversed direction, just like USAT diesels, the track and motor wires must be wired opposite between the 2 trucks. For a short time at the factory, apparently the main electronic tech who does the wiring was sick, and the temporary guy did not wire them right. Now, this loco could NEVER be test run on a piece of track, with the left rail shorted to the right rail, so not a great QA standard in the factory. Problem: poor or defective assemblyBack to the same pictures, this is how the top switch board should look when the trim plate is removed: but see RJ's unit: See a problem?missing metal plate with legendBoard is mounted 180 degrees wrongBattery charge plug obstructedShell not routed out to clear battery charge plugA sharp observer will see that the extra clearance for the charge socket was routed with a mill, seeing the radiused corners on Ted's loco. Another example is that the speedometer drive cable should be coming from the front left truck sideframe. Ted's was on the right rear on one loco, correct on the other loco (he has 2 SP units). Issue, no documentation on electrical interface This is a HUGE problem, and frankly inexcusable.The main motherboard is designed to ONLY support an ESU Loksound 5 XL decoder.This is foolish, since ESU is a minor player in the USA, has limited sound files, and most documentation is in German.In any case, the main board has 4 SIP socket strips, and there is NO WAY to attach any other decoder.There is a dumm The electronics interface and install of other decoders is HERE.
AML GP60 first release this page under construction Overview:This was a special release at the behest of Robby at RLD Hobbies. This loco was delayed many years, and finally when it was seeming to be "soon", there was a hangup on the electronics. Accucraft apparently wanted a DCC option, and unfortunately hung their hat on interfacing to an ESU decoder as opposed to using the established standard that had several proven drop in decoders.So again in his wisdom, Robby negotiated for a run of locos that had no electronics. He got them almost a year before the general release (and the DCC option is STILL not available), and they were indeed bare bones, no speaker, no lights, no circuit boards, just wires to the trucks.The following pictures are of Colin Camarillo's GP60, and the installation of a QSI Titan.
AML GP60 PrototypesPrototype review:I participated in some review of a first prototype. In my opinion there was not enough thinking on the robustness of the mechanical design and the electrical issues.No offense to Accucraft, but this has been an issue with the brand forever, initially I was told the brand was "museum quality" in detail but not good runners.In retrospect these issues have carried forward to the manufactured product. Prototype issues:Observations:1. logo and stripes below the grill on long hood not level (surely will be corrected)2. motor block looks virtual clone of USAT design, but no suspension.3. axle bushings look silvery, not brass, can you determine metal? - final will be bronze4. power pickup internal wipers (look like spring bronze wire), possible weak point, short circuits will remove temper from this and it will lose contact.5. where is the insulator in the wheelset, it must be in the center worm gear.6. The worm gear looks strange, like there is a brass plate embedded into the sides of it7. the worm appears metal8. further inspection appears that one half axle is splined to set gauge, other side is fixed to the gear9. the closeup of the wheel makes be believe sintered, also there are mold marks at right angles to the lines you would have seen if CNC machined solid steel - production wheels will be blackened SS wheels,10. but looking at the face of the wheel, it looks like machine marks, but those could be from the mold.11. the internal use of rods to distribute power is another clone of the USAT design12. note the adjustment of the wheel gauge appears to yield non-symmetrical spacing of wheel to gear 13. wheels scale to 38.7"14. flange depth looks ok Comments to Accucraft: Mechanical:need ball bearings, the internal bushings take all the loco weight in this design, not true with USATdesign, this loco is 11 poundsSpecifically, on USAT, the model supports the chassis through the axle tips in the sideframes, thus very little force on axle bearings in the motor blocks. This design supports the need polyfuses to protect whisker power pickups on axles The model: The chassis is a long piece of metal down the center Mechanics:The motor blocks are very similar to USAT, but do not passs the weight through the axle tips. Electronics:There was nothing to see, and the result in the product is a mess.
PIKO 2 Bay Hopper Car Experiences & Body Mount Couplers Ted Doskaris January 17, 2024 Rev GE-A Initial Release Shown above is an example PIKO hopper model representative of an older era prototype car that could have been upgraded in more modern times with "roller bearing" trucks relegated to ballast or sand track maintenance service.Contents:About the PIKO Car & CamPac Boxes Mounting CamPac Box PIKO & Aristo-Craft Car Comparison Upgrading PIKO Car to "Modern" Era Adding Pneumatic Brake Parts PIKO Car Weight Configurations About the PIKO Car & CamPac BoxesPIKO, including antecedent brand names MDC/Roundhouse/Mainline America (henceforth, collectively referred to as PIKO) have / had various versions of this 1/32 scale car that include open top types of rib side, “offset” side, and the car with a removable top cover. First impressions of the 2 bay hopper car is that it’s feather light (weighs 1 pound). The Car also has a noticeably flexible fitting underside chassis frame lacking any fastening hardware. The frame can be removed & reinstalled by bending its spine, as its ends butt fit into and are retained by the car body's draft gear openings (slots). As to prototype, the PIKO external ribbed version model closely resembles the United States Railway Administration (USRA) 1917-1920 World War I era car having 7 external side ribs and brake lever rather than a brake wheel. (Later years of this USRA car had a brake wheel mounted atop of a vertically mounted shaft.)In a 1/29 scale environment, the car could represent a 30 foot long prototype coal car. The car does include reasonably good detail (including the molded-in brake lever). The Car is factory equipped with plastic trucks having plastic wheels and hook & loop couplers. The end sills of the car having a slot for retaining the under frame resembles where a prototype body mount coupler “draft gear” could be located. The slot, which provides some exterior recess with under frame installed, is used to advantage to body mount the "keyed" 3-D printed CamPac coupler box. Accordingly, to both improve the car’s appearance and operation in a long heavy train, body mount CamPac BoxesTM fitted with Kadee centerset (no offset) “G” scale AAR E type couplers from the 907 kit can be employed. To improve the Car's operational stability in a train on curves (8 foot minimum diameter), Replacing the trucks’ plastic wheels with heaver USA Trains metal wheels is done. As to the car's enhanced stability, this is demonstrated in the below illustration where the car is able to "self center" upright just from the added weight of metal wheels! (The Car with metal wheels and body mounted CamPac coupler boxes fitted with Kadee centersets was tested without problems on my under house layout as the first car behind the locos pulling a heavy 27 car freight train around many loops.) For proper coupler alignment with Kadee coupler height gage, spacer washers are to be placed over the chassis bolster pivot post before trucks are mounted. For a typical 1/29 scale environment, the mounted CamPac box and properly installed trucks having metal wheels can be seen below. If choosing to use the car in 1/32 scale environment, the Kadee 1907 kit’s #1 scale smaller coupler could be fitted in the CamPac Boxes in place of the Kadee kit’s 907. (Note: The coupler in 1907 kit is described as centerset, but actually has downward offset to conform with #1 scale coupler railhead height.) Mounting CamPac Box Only a brief installation overview will be illustrated here. NOTE: For full "how to" installation detail, you must see the "PIKO 2 Bay Hopper Car CamPac Box Install Guide" on Colin Camarillo's website where the CamPac boxes for the Car can be obtained. The chassis frame must first be re-installed, and the center of the spine must be screwed to the car body. This requires drilling and tapping before threading in a long screw. This is shown in the Install Guide. The CamPac box "key" will be seated into the car's end sill slot. With the box key seated within the slot, and whilst the box is firmly held in position, frame holes to be drilled and tapped can be established. The box can be removed to do the full drill thru and subsequent tapping.With frame holes drilled thru, they then can be tapped for #2-56 thread. Finally, with the held in place box and seated, it's fastened with #2-56 screws. PIKO & Aristo-Craft Car Comparison Shown below in BN livery is an Aristo covered hopper on the left and a PIKO hopper on the right with factory lid cover Shown below are the top views of the same cars with Aristo covered hopper on the left and PIKO hopper on the right. Shown below are end views of the same cars with PIKO hopper on the left and Aristo covered hopper on the right. Upgrading PIKO Car to "Modern" Era The example presented is the "Reindeer Pass Exclusive" car in BN green livery because it has the: "Clean, Oil, Test Stencil" (COTS) labeling having white outlined black panels indicating more "modern" era 1974 dates. The picture below shows the car before the Aristo-Craft Barber emulated roller bearing trucks were installed - with the washers to be used over the bolster posts before trucks are mounted just like the Car with factory Bettendorf trucks. The following pictures show the car with the Aristo-Craft Barber emulated roller bearing trucks installed.The trucks have AML metal wheels as an alternative to the Aristo wheels. Because the plastic bearing caps fit a little loose, they were glued with a tiny amount of Titebond glue. The "B" end of the car is shown below. Note that the more modern brake wheel could be placed over the molded-in brake lever - not yet done. The "A" end of the car is shown below. Because the Aristo Barber truck bolster mount hole is about 0.020 inch larger in diameter than the PIKO factory Bettendorf truck, a shim is made to fit within the hole, and then the truck is mounted as illustrated below. Doing this mitigates excessive car wobble. Adding Pneumatic Brake Parts The PIKO hopper car does not have any emulated pneumatic brake parts. A more contemporary brake assembly can be installed within the "B" end frame of the car - shown pre-painted. This nicely 3-D printed assembly includes air tank, cylinder, and valve made by Nico Corbo. It can be obtained via Nico's website, 4TrackRR. Shown below is the Reindeer Pass Exclusive PIKO hopper car brought into the more "modern" era, including gluing in Nico's brake assembly. PIKO Car Weight Configurations End, -Ted